Chardonnay Lives

While much of this video is deliberately tongue-in-cheek, there is something to be said for the increasingly common bored, world-weary denunciation of Chardonnay as "so over" (for the proper effect, you really have to say this with the inflections of the San Fernando Valley native). I suspect some of the decreasing popularity of Chardonnay in some quarters has something to do with the enormous popularity of the vine and it's reputation for hearty bearing. Certainly the triumph of Two Buck Chuck's Charles Shaw's 2007 Chardonnay triumph must have caused a few, err, sour grapes for some wine fanatics. But I forgot something, or more accurately, I was completely unaware of the enormous difference that terroir, the soil and growing conditions, and fermentation and wine production make with Chardonnay.

I confess that for me, Chardonnay has been the wine to avoid. Partly, I realize now, because I've been subjected to a lot of rather unpleasant California Chardonnays. Chardonnay grapes are one of the varietals that tend towards abundance, and in California, much of that abundance was pressed into inexpensive less-than-wonderful wine of the sort that offices have at parties. You know the sort of thing I mean. There's a table with five or six bottles of white wine, and one or two of red. The white wines at such occasions are, at least in my Southern California experience, mostly Chardonnays, and they tend to be acidic and tannic-tasting. I wouldn't have described myself as an "ABC" (Anything But Chardonnay), but certainly I wouldn't have made a Chardonnay my first choice in even a white wine. I have, in fact, steadfastly ignored the very presence of Chardonnay at Washington wine stores, since I pretty much viewed the wine as a waste of grape. Too acidic and "oaky" to bother with.

Well, I've seen the light; I had a bottle of Washington Chardonnay a few weeks ago, and it was a different wine. Had I not seen the bottle, I'd have argued that it couldn't possibly be Chardonnay because it was rich, full-bodied, and fruity without being cloyingly sweet. Just to be sure, I bought a second bottle of the same wine, and it was still amazing. I wouldn't have recognized it as Chardonnay; it was fuller, sort of buttery and rich, a little reminiscent of pear cider, without being overly tannin-laden. In fact, it tasted like more, and I am resolved to try more Chardonnay from Washington.

Escape for a Weekend in Washington's Wine Country

Marriott Hotels is offering an interesting Washington wine country weekend package at the Woodinville, WA Marriot. Woodinville is the birthplace of the

Washington wine industry, and the headquarters of Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia wineries, not to mention a host of others nearby. In addition to a special room rate, the package includes a welcome gift of your choice of local wines (either red or white), and a complimentary breakfast buffet for two. The special "deluxe" room rates range from $109 to $189 per night, and are good through October 21, 2009. You need to use the special promotional code ARN for the package rate. You can read more about it here.

Woodinville is packed with wineries (over 40 in Woodinville alone), and this is a neat way to pick a few to visit, do a tour, taste a little wine, and just have a relaxing break. You can use this printable map to help you plan your trip. I'm not sure whether I'd want to go now or later—it would be awfully tempting to go in September when you could see part of the harvest, and the weather is still gorgeous. But right now, summer fruits are all over, and you can stop at farm stands and pack picnics to enjoy as you sip wine.

On Wednesday, July 15, you could go to Woodinville's Wine Notes Wednesday; you buy a ticket and go to Columbia Winery to taste wine from over 20 wineries, accompanied by live music and hors d'oeuvres. You can buy tickets and read more here.

On Chardonnay

Chardonnay is notorious or celebrated, depending on whom you ask, for the grapes' ability to reflect distinct differences in taste based on the terroir, the composition of the soil the vines grow in. Chardonnay had a enormous burst in popularity in the late 1980s and early 1990s, especially in California, where growers, perhaps too enthusiastically, planted thousands of acres in Chardonnay grapes. That "glut," as some see it, led to many wine drinkers rejecting Chardonnay, or at least California Chardonnay, out of hand. Chardonnay is one of the most abundant grapes, grown in just about every region that grows grapes. Chablis refers to Chardonnay from the Chablis region in the far northern corner of Burgundy, a region whose chill climate and particular limestone, chalk, and marl soil creates a dry wine known for both taste and aroma. In France Chardonnay is a key grape for Champagne, but it flourishes in the U.S., especially California, in South Africa, as well as Australia and New Zealand. In recent years, Chile and Argentina have had success with Chardonnay. Chardonnay is also very popular as a blend with other white wines, especially Chenin blanc, and Sémillion.

University of California at Davis researchers have determined via DNA testing that the Chardonnay grape is a cross between Pinot and Gouais Blanc (still sometimes called Heunisch) grapes. The theory behind this very successful cross is that Romans brought Gouais Blanc with them from the Balkans, and cultivated it enthusiastically in Eastern Gaul, now known as Eastern France. Later French-speaking medieval and renaissance peasants favored the grape, which was often cultivated in vineyards very near their aristocratic feudal lords Pinto vines. So the initially cross was likely natural, but because the offspring vines distributed hybrid vigor, the cross was enthusiastically propagated, and resulted in a suite of closely related offspring, including Chardonnay, Auxerrois, Peurion and a handful of others. There are now a very large number of French-developed clones of Chardonnay, many of which appear to be very much suited to new world climates like those in Washington and Oregon, especially in the Willamette valley.

Two common wine making techniques that very much affect Chardonnay whether or not malolactic fermentation (which converts the harder, and pungent-tasting malic acid to the softer lactic acid, responsible for the "buttery" quality of many Chardonnays, versus the "sour" or green apple quality) is used, and whether or not oak is part of the fermentation process (in the form of oak chips added to the wine) or the aging process, in terms of the actual barrels (American or French oak, new or aged oak, and how much the oak is charred, for instance, all make a difference). The time of harvest also makes a difference; riper grapes are sweeter, and that can lead to a higher alcohol content. Other, more controversial techniques include adding other ingredients, often in very small quantities, to the fermenting wine. For such a very traditional grape, the resulting wine, and its production, has become increasingly controversial in the last twenty years, with a bewildering array of very different but very emphatic opinions about every aspect.

Many people associate summer with Chardonnay, and that's certainly affected the food pairings. The source, and production methods of Chardonnay affect its flavors and aromas so much that some Chardonnays can be paired with roast chicken or grilled sea food, while others, especially the oaky versions, may be perfect for smoked fish or mild artisan cheeses. more acidic Chardonnays may work very well with spicy Asian influenced cuisines. There are so very many Washington wineries with a Chardonnay (Riesling-centric Pacific Rim is the only Washington winery I can find without a Chardonnay), that it's not difficult to find just the right one for you and your menu.

Columbia Crest Vineyard 10 Blends

Columbia Crest's Vineyard 10, a vineyard with mixed red and white grapes planted along the Columbia River, is the largest single estate vineyard in Washington, with some of the very oldest wines. Columbia Crest's Vineyard 10 Two Vines series of wines features varietals as well as a trio of blends; Two Vines White, Two Vines Rosé, and Two Vines Red. These are all fermented in stainless steel fermenters, and the blend is created after

Two Vines Vineyard 10 White wine is a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, all from Washington. Colette and John Bancroft of the Palm Beach Post have picked Columbia Crest's 2006 Two Vines Vineyard 10 White Wine as their "wine of the week." They refer to the wine as "a masterful example of blending," and describe it as "A delectable, very fruit forward blend" Wine Spectator called it a "Best Value" at 88 points. They've done an admirable job of creating a blend here; it really really works. You do notice the Chardonnay, but it's magically transformed by the other wines; I'm not a Chardonnay fan, at all, (living in Southern California can ruin Chardonnay for you), but I very much like this blend; the other wines enhance each other, and create something greater than their parts. This is definitely a "can't go wrong" summer wine.

Two Vines Vineyard 10 Rosé is a blend that's almost completely Syrah, with a small amount of Viognier. According to the Columbia Crest Web site puts it, "Select Syrah fruit was de-stemmed and crushed into refrigerated tanks for a 24-hour cold soak to extract the desired color. To minimize phenolic pick-up, the juice was then drained away from the skins into temperature controlled stainless steel fermenters." In other words, the grapes were selected, and crushed with the skins in order to achieve the "rosé" color. Then to avoid the grape skins making the wine bitter, the juice was drained and put into stainless steel tanks for fermentation. After, "To enhance the fresh fruit aromatics, a small amount of stainless steel fermented Viognier" was added, largely as a way of enhancing the wine's aroma. I like this wine, very much—having said that, the last bottle we purchased was disappointing; I'm not sure what was wrong, but it wasn't the same wine, even though it was exactly the same year as the others I've enjoyed. When it's good, it's a lovely light summer wine, perfect for sipping, and wonderful with summer salads.

Two Vines Vineyard 10 Red is a blend of Syrah, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Barbera, Mouvedre, Dolcetto varietals. Some of the wines used in the final blend were aged 12 - 14 months in French and American oak barrels. This is a fabulous basic red table wine, wonderful with food, but surprisingly good on its own. It's another "can't go wrong" table wine, and I do think that the blend is rather amazing. I had someone who doesn't like red wines, ever at all, try this and ask for a second glass. It does seem to change a bit in terms of the food it's served with—almost as if different foods bring other enhance the wine's own flavors.

Washington Sangria

My very favorite Mexican restaurant in Southern California not only makes the best Margaritas I've ever had, they make fabulous Sangria. Sangria is the perfect drink to have with friends on long hot summer days, sitting out on your deck, watching the world go by. Sangria is cold and tangy and refreshing, and the wine adds a depth of flavor to the citrus that enhances it. Served in a chilled clear pitcher, Sangria is a feast for the eyes as well as the taste buds, and you can drink a fair amount without necessarily having to drink much alcohol, or indeed, any; you can make Sangria without using wine. If you must.

Sangria arrived in Southern California with the Spanish; they might have gotten the idea from the Portugese—both countries claim Sangria for their own. Sangrìa is Spanish, Sangria is Portugese; both mean bloody, likely a reference to the fact that most Sangria has a red wine base. Sangria is not, however something people order in bars or restaurants in Spain; Sangria is something people make at home. Sangria in spain serves roughly the same purpose as "jungle juice" in America; it's something served in a large bowl at parties. You don't really inquire too deeply about the ingredients.When you make Sangria, it's best to make it a few hours before you plan to serve it, and adjust it to taste. The recipe can vary quite a lot, and very much depends on individual preferences and what you have on hand. The most traditional ingredients are:

  • A bottle of robust red wine; in Europe this is typically a Spanish (or Portugese) Tempranillo or an inexpensive Spanish Rioja.
  • Sliced or chunked fresh fruit; usually oranges, lemons, limes, sometimes pineapple. I like to use small kumquat slices, some people add melon chunks and apples pieces, and I've even seen peaches and mangos used.
  • Sometimes, depending on the wine, the fruit and the drinkers, sugar, honey, or, most often, orange juice
  • A small amount of brandy, triple sec, or Grand Marnier
  • Ice
  • Sparkling water

The basic method is to cut up the fruit, remove the seeds, put it in a large pitcher, add the wine, and any spirit, and let it sit for a few hours. Taste the Sangria and determine if it needs sweetening; consider using orange juice. Add the sparkling water; I'd suggest starting with at least a ratio of 1/3 sparkling water to the amount of wine you've used. If you want to be drinking a fair amount of fluid without becoming inebriated, use the same amount of sparkling water as the amount of wine. Many people omit the spirits completely; I like the hint of orange that even a shot of Grand Marnier adds. Just before serving add some ice to the pitcher, and more to the glasses. You'll want a large spoon at hand to stir the Sangria, and manage the fruit.

The variations possible in making Sangria are endless. The base wine you start with is probably the most important ingredient. You'll probably see people telling you to use the cheapest red wine possible; don't. Don't spend a fortune, but don't buy something you wouldn't drink on its own, either. I'd suggest something that's a red table wine, or even a hearty red blend. In my mistaken youth as a poverty stricken grad student, I used Riunite Lambrusco. That was a long time ago when there weren't a lot of wines readily available in small college towns. Today, howver, it's very different. Washington wine is available even in the Eastern half of the country, and there are some truly amazing Washington red wines. I'd go with a Washington Cabernet Sauvignon, a Merlot, or even a Burgundy blend. Some people use a white wine, like Sauvignon Blanc and make Sangria Blanca. You might try making Sangria Blanca using a Washington Riesling or Gewürtztramminer; later this summer, I'm going to try a Sangria Blanca with a Washington sparkling wine, and lemons.

You can experiment with the other ingredients as well as the wine. Adjust the fruit to the wine you're using as a base; you want a balance of tangy and sweet. Think about the appearance as well as the flavor. Honey adds a mellow, softer sweetness than sugar. I prefer to use orange or tangerine juice if the Sangria needs to be a little sweeter. It's important to let the fruit marinate in the wine before you add anything to sweeten it; with some wines, the fruit is enough. You might consider using orange or lemon flavored sparkling water, or even sparkling lemonade instead of plain sparkling water. Don't add so much water that you lose the lovely red color of the wine. This is Sangria, not a wine cooler. If you want to make non-alcoholic Sangria, start with a base of cranberry juice or a cranberry juice blend.

There are lots of Sangria recipes. I mostly make Sangria based on whim, and taste. My friend Dawno makes "Faux Sangria" using Merlot and ingredients you can find almost anywhere—including the average hotel. It's not bad!

Pacific Rim Winery

Washington's Pacific Rim winery had its start in 1992, when Randall Grahm of California parent winery Bonny Doon first released a Bonny Doon dry Riesling under the label of Pacific Rim Dry Riesling. The wine was quite popular; there weren't a lot of California wineries offering a Riesling, and the success, and Grahm's personal love of Riesling, led to the spin-off of Pacific Rim as a separate winery. As the Web site says, "in August of 2006 a small band of Bonny Doon expats moved to the Northwest from California with a common desire to craft the best Riesling in America" and Pacific Rim the winery was born, with Nicolas Quillé, former Bonny Doon general manager and a winemaker himself serving as midwife.

Grahm has made his interest in biodynamics very clear, and Pacific Rim has continued to display an interest in biodynamic wine making, as well as sustainable wine production. One of the things I like about the way they do this is that they're very matter-of-fact and direct about it; there's not a lot of holier than thou flag waving; they're still primarily interested in making good wine, and they see overlap in biodynamic production, and sustainable methods. They only use stainless steel tanks for their Riesling, instead of, say, oak barrels. Their somewhat controversial but very ecology and customer-friendly decision to use aluminum screw caps on all their wines, as well as light-weight recyclable glass bottles, are instances of Pacific Rim of actually doing something about sustainability, rather than merely talking about it.

Pacific Rim is absolutely serious in their "Riesling zealotry." Indeed they have an official Riesling Manifesto in the form of the little Riesling Rules booklet. Pacific Rim sees Riesling as especially interesting because of the grape's potential for reflecting the terroir of the vineyard. Pacific Rim makes a suite of Rieslings, including Dry Riesling, Sweet Riesling, an organic Riesling, and a sparkling Riesling. So far the Pacific Rim Dry Riesling is the only one I've tried, and it was pretty amazing. Very definitely dry, not "sort of dry," as some Washington dry Rieslings are, but still fruity, fragrant, and with a definite citrus edge. It was truly marvelous, and one of those Rieslings that, while lovely on its own, does something remarkable when paired with food. I'm very much looking forward to trying the Gewürtztraminer, and the sparkling Riesling, but I notice that just this spring, Pacific Rim has started offering two wine blends under the Pacific Rim Autumnus label. Autumnus White is a blend of Washington varietals; Riesling, Chenin Blanc and Gewürztraminer. And, much to the shock of many, Pacific Rim is also offering a companion Autumnus Red, a blend Sangiovese, Barbera and Primitivo. I've been watching for both Autumnus wines locally, but as yet have not spotted either. I've also been watching for Pacific Rim's Framboise; it's a dessert wine, made with Morrison raspberries grown for Pacific Rim from a single Mount Vernon Washington farm. I can imagine all sorts of lovely ways to use it not only on its own, but in dessert. Think of an intensely rich Raspberry wine as a base for a sauce or chocolate cake filling.

Aside from an occasional reference to avoiding malolactic conversion, or the sugar content of their wines—an indication of the wine geek interests of Pacific Rim, their Web site is refreshingly honest and enthusiastic about their wines. Their descriptions are about the wines, and are straightforward and understandable. Take this one for their Chenin Blanc:

Our Chenin Blanc grapes come from the Columbia Valley. We produce only a small number of cases of this delicious white wine. Grape sourcing is limited, but this wine is simply too good not to make. The juice is fermented in stainless steel tanks (No oak, no malolactic) and we usually work toward 1.2% of Residual Sugar to balance the slight natural bitterness of Chenin (look for the grapefruit rind finish).

The wine is vividly bright with flavors of pear, quince and grapefruit essence with an eruption of floral aromas. An inspired complement to shellfish, grilled fish, soft cheeses and Middle Eastern food.

I confess, I have not, to the best of my knowledge, tried a Chenin Blanc; California still is the land of Chardonnay. But by golly, that description makes me want to try Pacific Rim's Chenin Blanc—if I can find it locally, which, so far, hasn't been possible. The Chenin Blanc, like most of the Pacific Rim wines retails for around $11.00, Pacific Rim also offers a collection of single vineyard varietals that run around $20.00 a bottle, including a Riesling from Wallula Valley grapes, Biodynamic Riesling from the Wallula vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills of the Columbia Valley, Solstice Riesling and Dauenhauer Riesling using grapes from the Willamette Valley. These are serious efforts at utilizing the concept of terroir with Washington grown grapes, and then making decisions about the wine based on the unique qualities that the land offers the grapes, utilizing special irrigation, trellising, and harvesting by hand. They also make a Selenium Vineyard Vin De Glaciere Riesling, using grapes grown in Washington's Yakima Valley, picked carefully at a specific degree of ripeness and natural sugar, then frozen. The grapes are pressed while frozen, thus concentrating the natural sugars and creating what by all accounts (numerous medals) is an incredible eiswein style dessert wine.

A few months ago, in April, Forbes ran a blind taste-test comparing the Pacific Rim Riesling to Pacific Rim's more expensive single vineyard Wallula Valley Riesling. There's an article here, and it's actually quite interesting. A group of experts compared a series of regular and reserve wines in paris, using wines from the same winery for each pairing. Overall, the panel (experienced wine professionals all) seem to favor the less expensive Pacific Rim Dry Riesling. You can see the video for yourself.

Riesling Rules

My introduction to Washington wines in California was via Rieslings from Hogue and

Ste. Michelle. My mom was fond of German and South African Rieslings, so they made a good place to start exploring Washington wine. After moving to Washington, I started trying a variety of Rieslings, and discovered a certain fondness for dry Rieslings. In particular, I liked the Pacific Rim Dry Riesling, and, a few moments on their Website, led me to an invitation; send Pacific Rim my postal address, and they'd send me a copy of their Riesling Rules booklet. I've only just now gotten around to sitting down and carefully reading the entire thing. "The entire thing," of course is not that big; it's about 6'' x 4'', and 40 pages in length. It's a rather elegant chap book. The complete contents are available online, with comment links, but it's a rather different reading experience to sit down with a glass of Riesling and a book.

Riesling Rules begins with a discussion of the origins of the Riesling grape in the late middle ages in Germany. To this day, the Mosel and Alsace regions are famed for their Riesling. The book includes intelligent, clear, and fun discussions of the arrival of Riesling in the new world, the varieties of Riesling wines, from very dry to dessert wines, even a brief wine geek technical discussion. There's an intelligent and fun section on matching various Rieslings to food, including desserts, and the first rational discussion of Rieslings and proper glassware I've ever seen. There are clever faux quotations from famous Riesling drinkers, bits of Riesling trivia, and charming Riesling anecdotes scattered throughout. These include lists of the best historic Rieslings, the top ten cities in which to enjoy Riesling (naturally, Seattle made the list). There's something to be said about someone who genuinely is a total Riesling geek having the tongue-in-cheek chutzpah to alter the famous Einstein quote to read "Curiosity is its own Riesling for being."

Even thorny issues like German classifications, clonal varieties, and viticulture methods are presented, albeit briefly, in very clear matter-of-fact language. In fact, none of Riesling Rules is written in the usual "I'm snootier than you" unbearably awful purple prose of most wine readers; this is the secure, comfortable knowledgeable voice of someone who knows wines, and loves Riesling. I'm well aware that the book is a super way to promote Pacific Rim wines, but this is not marketing speak; this is a fun but informative book by someone who genuinely loves Riesling, and not just Washington Riesling, or Northwest Rieslings, either; there are some lovely remarks on New Zealand Riesling that, given the frequency of wine writers (and wine makers) to sneer at "new world" wines, is more than refreshing; it's delightful. I note that the authorial "voice" is coherent throughout; this is a single writer, writing about something he or she truly loves, and it's more an effort to evangelize Riesling than Pacific Rim. In effect, for all that there's not a lot of Pacific Rim marketing-dweeb speak (in fact there's a total absence of the standard marketing dweeb approach) Riesling Rules serves as the best kind of marketing. It's true, it's specific, and it's absolutely genuine and personal.

If you'd like your own copy, click here and provide an email address, and a U.S. Postal address, and they'll send you your own copy within three weeks. Tell 'em I sent you.

Washington Wine Industry Still Growing

I realize I'm a recent import, but I'm just as delighted as a native to read the latest from the Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers. Even though we're at the start of what looks like a very bad economic era, the Washington wine industry is growing. Washington is second only to California in terms of U.S. wine production, and I'm hopeful to see Washington becoming more responsible for a lot more than the current roughly 4% of domestic wine production compared to California's 90%, or 523,000 acres. The number of wine grape plantings in Washington increased from 24,000 acres in 1999 to an estimated 33,000 this year. While that pales in comparison to the acreage in California, Washington wines are increasingly up to direct comparison, head to head (cork to cork?) with California. Washington wine now brings in $3 billion annually, from over 600 different wineries. Just ten years ago there were only 160 Washington wineries.

But the really cool news is that Washington will soon be home to 11 AVA's or American Viticultural Areas. AVAs are grape growing regions which are defined by geographic features, soil, and the grapes grown there as being unique, and therefore producing unique, notable wines. One of the more interesting facts about Washington and our grapes is that the state shares the same latitude (46ºN) as two of the most famous grape-growing and wine producing regions of France, Bordeaux and Burgundy. Lake Chelan will become the eleventh Washington AVA at the end of May. Latitude often equates with climate. Washington's other AVAs, or "appellations" as they're known are Yakima Valley, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley, Puget Sound, Red Mountain, Columbia Gorge, Horse Heaven Hills, Wahluke Slope, and Rattlesnake Hills. A couple of these AVAs border Oregon and function as "shared" appellations, but individual bottles usually indicate one state or the other, or they'll state that they used grapes from both. I note that there's a useful map here, with information about the wineries. Sounds like a road trip, or six, to me.

The numbers for varietals are changing too; currently, these are the major grape varieties grown in the state: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Grenache, Lemberger, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Syrah. You'll notice an emphasis on red wines; that makes a lot of sense when you remember the shared lattitude with the Bordeaux and Burgundy regions; similar growing conditions for similar grapes. There's a much greater number of red wine grapes than white, in fact 57% to 43%, according to this site. Interestingly, that's a change—in 1993 white grapes were dominant, to the tune of 64% white versus 36% red. Also interesting is that increasingly Washington growers are experimenting with other varietals, though in much smaller quantities. These include Aligoté, Barbera, Cinsault, Dolcetto, Grenache, Madeleine Angevine, Malbec, Mourvèdre, Müller-Thurgau, Muscats (a variety), Nebbiolo, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Pinot Gris, Siegerrebe, Tempranillo, and Zinfandel. I suspect that explains, in part, some of the Washington blends I've been seeing, blends which seem to be very much inspired by Bordeux, Rhône, and even "super Tuscan" blends.

Cabernet Franc

Cabernet Franc is one of the "parents" of Cabernet Sauvignon, and one of the varieties of grapes that have been grown in the Bordeaux region of France for centuries. In the middle ages, Cabernet Franc was

known as the Breton, and it seems to have been brought to the Bordeaux region by the Romans. Cabernet franc vines bear a thinner-skinned grape than their offspring, and tends to bear grapes that ripen a little earlier. It's a bit more tolerant of cold winters, but the early ripening can mean it runs the risk of damage from late spring frosts. It's a bit of a gamble either way, but many growers choose to plant cabernet franc in areas that are likely to have rain at harvest; the earlier ripening can mean Cabernet Franc is ripe before the fall rains. Although it's one of the five core wines blended to produce Bordeaux, on its own Cabernet Franc is described as "fruity," and "spicy," even "peppery." The grapes are blue-black in color; they remind me of the darkest blueberries in hue. The wine is typically lighter in color than cabernet sauvignon, and is one of those wines that the scent, the "aromatics," seem to receive perhaps even more attention than the taste. Though having said that, some of the wine masters I've asked have said that the color of Cabernet Franc is an important reason for using it in blends as well.

Cabernet Franc was planted in California in the late 1800s; viruses and Prohibition pretty much put paid to the earlier efforts, but vines were planted again in Napa in the 1960s. It has become increasingly important in California as a primary ingredient of the California "Bordeaux style" Meritage blends. Washington State University's Viticulture program is usually credited with planting the first cabernet franc vines in the 1970s, in the Columbia Valley, where the grapes ability to withstand colder temperatures made it very interesting. David Lake of Columbia Winery first experimented with cabernet franc in the seventies, with the first commercial plantings taking places at Red Willow Vineyards. Lake blended the Cabernet Franc with Merlot. Columbia winery released the first Cabernet Franc wines in 1991, and was followed just a year later by Chateau Ste. Michelle. Soon after, Chinook Winery began releasing a cabernet franc rosé. Currently Cabernet Franc is the fourth most planted grape in the state, after Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah, but most of the wine produced is in the form of Bordeaux-style blends. Notice, however, that I said "most"; not "all." There are a number of Washington wineries who mostly produce varietals, and Cabernet Franc is one of them. Over and over again, people mention the Washington climate as conducive to growing Cabernet Franc, and, over over again, I notice winemakers either praising the "herbacious" qualities of the grape, responsible for "herbal" notes in the wine, and associated with picking the grapes just before the peak ripeness, versus those who note that in Washington growers are fortunate in that they can allow the grape to fully ripen on the vine.

I'm finding it almost impossible to find 100% Cabernet Franc. In Washington state if a wine contains 75% or more of a particular varietal grape, it's perfectly legal, and even customary, to use the varietal name on the wine's label. That said, I do want to emphasize that there's a reason the delicate art of wine-blending is verifiably over a thousand years old; when done with care and taste, it works really really well.

Fielding Hills Winery in Wenachee uses grapes grown on the Wahluke Slope for their recently released 2006 Cabernet Franc. Technically, it's 82% Cabernet Franc, with 6% each of Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon. If you can find Tamarack Cellars Columbia Valley 2006 Cabernet Franc, it's 100% Cabernet Franc, and it's the first one everyone I asked about a Washington Cabernet Franc mentioned. One enthusiast bluntly said don't even try another 100% first; just wait.

Barrister Winery in Spokane has a Cabernet Franc, made with Columbia Valley grapes that they describe as their "signature wine." Wine enthusiast rated it at 90 points, but it too is a blend; 80% Cabernet Franc from Chelle den Pleasant and Sagemoor's Weinbau Vineyards with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Bacchus and Seven Hills Vineyards. It's available locally at between $35.00 and $40.00. Chatter Creek Winery in Woodinville offers a Cabernet Franc Alder Ridge 2006 Horse Heaven Hills that's 83% Cabernet Franc, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Merlot. It's on a fair number of restaurant menus where I am, in the Western half of the state; I've not seen it for sale in stores.

After Fielding, the winery whose Cabernet Franc I keep hearing about is Chinook Winery in Prosser, in Washington's Yakima valley. Mostly I've heard about the Cabernet Franc Rosé—last year's sold out completely, but the 2008 is listed for release on the Chinook Web site for June 1, 2009. The 2007 Yakima Valley Cabernet Franc is 100% varietal, and was released in March 2009. Both are under $25.00 a bottle.

There's been some super discussions of Cabernet Franc wines online lately. In particular I want to draw your attention to Barry Wong's 2006 Seattle Times article on Cabernet Franc in Washington. It's interesting to see what has changed since this was written. Kori Voorhees of Wine Peeps has an interesting piece on Washington Cabernet Franc wine tasting on Wine chatR.com.

Haven't tried Merlot since you were 16? Try this!

Merlot is known for its sweet "jammy" taste and many would-be wine-o's may find it the perfect wine, with its cherry-berry flavored training wheels, to get started down a lifelong path of passionate red wine drinking! I speak from experience, not assumption. Eventually, you experiment with the whites and decide that they just don't really "do it" for you- where's the lust, the journey, the "take me all the way!" that those reds give you every time?

Red wine delivers a whole different experience than white wine and one that I much prefer. With white wine you get giggles and bubbly daydreams of blondes bounding down the beach alongside golden retrievers wearing white sweaters or those crisp fall days in the Granny Smith apple orchard watching the yellow leaves fall. With red wine, you get down into the core of your soul, your heart speaks its deepest thoughts erupting with love, with longing, with gratitude, regret, or hope.  A jubilee of life's experiences explode before your very eyes like Cirque de Soleil. If you are drinking South African or Australian red you get those primal drumbeat inclinations along with visions of naked painted men dancing around large bonfires, armadillos, tigers, exotic birds and the like. And who can deny the conversations you have with other red wine drinkers? Surprisingly more intellectual and introspective than you ever dared dream you could be- even on a pot of coffee, even after sex or before sex (what eloquence!), even after the best news and the worst news you've ever heard in your life! You love it so much so you'll do it again, despite the morning headaches and eventually, you've outgrown your merlot training wheels. By the time you're 19, you are sipping Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, there's a brief affair with microbrewed, artisan beer while you're living in Europe during college but, you come back to your love of red wine and you're onto the blends and the vintages. By the time you are in your early 20's.... you know a fair amount about wine and merlot falls by the wayside. Its the wine that got you started and you've literally had gallons of it in your short lifetime already. You love it but you have to leave it.... its a big wine world out there.

Then one day, after a few years of globe trotting, a few professional successes and romantic failures, after start-ups and let downs... after leaving your dusky, dreary (beloved) Seattle home of the past few years to cross the country, yet again, chasing down a dream.... you go to the wine shop for some inspiration. A blonde-haired, blue-eyed wine clerk who is really rather good-looking is passing you his card after you approach him saying you rode your bike 3 miles to take advantage of that great Pinot Noir sale you spotted online. While the sale is over... be prepared to win big! Let it begin.

"A Washington wine, please. Any recommendations? I want to write an article and I just moved from Seattle. I'm kind of missing it and it is raining outside so..... Obviously, my favorite is Pinot Noir."

"Absolutely! My favorite is Bridgman's from Yakima Valley. They make an excellent Merlot!"

Pause. A cool silence. Merlot? Am I a child? I stand next to him facing this bottle of Merlot in hot pink tennis shoes and a sunshine yellow t-shirt, my face beet red from bicycling while my younger brother waits with our rides just outside. We carry on to the aforementioned Pinot Noir, in my opinion, the Rolls Royce of drinkable red wine and he does his best to sound as genuinely enthusiastic about it. Looking into his bright blue eyes and pale Irish face, I realize that this hot dude has just revealed a secret. The Bridgman merlot really IS one of his favorite wines!!! The sheer sincerity and honesty of that small fact thrills me to my very fingertips and I take the merlot!

Drinking it now... I've got to tell you, I've come full circle! This is amazing! Its like a big fat kiss of wine, right on the pucker! Its got the cherries and the berries and the jammy-mammy love of merlot that made me fall in love with red wine to begin with! Not too sweet, Bridgman 2006 makes a play for your palette with spice and an undercurrent of chocalate leading to long, silky finish.

Hallelujah, I am found! Sweet road of Bridgman Merlot, you are the chariot that is bringing me home. Home sweet home to my red wine lovin' roots! Pick it up folks and don't be afraid to go into your local wine shop, you never know who will be making a recommendation that may impact your Saturday afternoon commensurate with that time you realized your childhood experience really has had a profound influence upon your supposed adulthood. And afterall, wine is not just about wine- its about the people make it and drink it together. Salut!

 

 

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